開封又一新糖醋軟溜鯉魚焙面,是由“糖醋溜魚“、“焙面“兩道名菜配制而成。溜魚焙面是開封的傳統名菜,也是豫菜之經典。
歷史起源
“糖醋溜魚”歷史悠久,據《東京夢華錄》記載:北宋時期,東京市場上已流行。它是以鯉魚尤以黃河鯉魚為上品原料,以過初步加工后,用坡刀把魚的兩面解成瓦壟花紋,入熱油鍋炸透。然后以適量白糖、香醋、姜末、料酒、食鹽等調料,對入開水,勾加流水芡,用旺火熱油烘汁,至油和糖醋汁全部融合,放進炸魚,潑上芡汁即成。其特點是色澤棗紅,軟嫩鮮香,甜中透酸,酸中微咸;焙面細如發絲,蓬松酥脆。
1900年,清光緒皇帝和慈禧太后為逃避八國聯軍之難,曾在開封停留。開封府衙著名廚備膳,貢奉“糖醋溜魚”,光緒和慈禧太后食后,連聲稱贊。光緒稱之 “古都一佳肴”;慈禧高興地說:“膳后忘返”。隨身太監手書一聯:“溜魚出何處,中原古汴梁”,賜給開封府以示表彰。
“焙面”以稱“龍須面”。據《如夢錄》載:明代開封每逢農歷二月初二,所謂“龍抬頭”之日,為呈吉祥,官府、民間都以細面相贈,稱之為“龍須面”。起初面用水煮食,后來,不斷改進,過油炸焦,使其蓬松酥脆,吸汁后,配菜肴同食,故稱“焙面”。
1930年前后,開封名師最早將用油炸過的“龍須面”,蓋在做好的“糖醋溜魚”上面,創作了“糖醋溜魚帶焙面”名菜,深為顧客歡迎。將二者合而為一,既可食魚,又可以面蘸汁,故別有風味。其后,該菜逐漸傳開。
Kaifeng Slide-fish and Baked-noodles
Kaifeng Slide-fish and Baked-noodles is a traditional delicious dish which has enjoyed a good reputation for a very long time. Baked noodles are also called baked Longxumian. According to the work, Rumeng Lu, in Ming and Qing Dynasty, in Kaifeng, at the 2nd day of the second lunar month every year, which was always called the day for Long raising up its head, people should eat dragon beard noodles boiled by hot water and send each other raw noodles. Later, people envelop this kind of noodles into baked noodles.
Kaifeng Slide-fish and Baked-noodles is actually composed of two dishes: sweet and sour slide fish and baked dragon beard noodles. It’s said that when Empress Cixi ran her way to Kaifeng, a famous cook dedicated these two dishes. The empress said that the fish fell asleep and would be cold and then covered it with the soft noodles. From then on, the dish slide-fish and baked-noodles earned its fame. Its great characteristics are red-color, delicate, fresh and fragrant; the noodles are as thin as hair, soft and crisp.
Kaifeng Slide-fish and Baked-noodles choose carps produced in the Yellow River, which are pure, fresh and fat. Cut them into corrugated shape on the two sides, fry them completely and add into sugar, vinegar, ginger juice and chopped green onion as well, then we can get a slide-fish preparing for the whole dish. s are o Kaifeng, a famous cook